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ef manual conversion wiring

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ef manual conversion wiringPosted: Tue Jan 23, 2007 10:49 pm I've unwrapped it right up and may undo more still to see if there are any joins.EL Grrrr wrote: Can I just cut off the other wires that go to the big round plug (that goes into Auto) or do I need to leave that connected??? Damn I knew I should've stopped unwinding it before I got so far up the loom, well I can just tape it all up again and put all those bits back I took off. Doesn't really matter what you do with them - I've found some ECU's give out fault codes for the solenoids, some don't. You can hook up 120 ohm resistors to simulate the solenoids, but this is only to cut down getting 7 error codes when you go to do ECU diagnostics. The error codes themselves won't affect the way the car drives. Thanks Voxace I loved your manual and will contribute some more info and pics from my EL conversion.It would be a good addition to this manual.You can use any size 5w resistor but aim for around 100- 120 ohms so they don't get too hot, the S5 one may need to be less, say around 50 ohms, test using larger ones first.You can use any size 5w resistor but aim for around 100- 120 ohms so they don't get too hot, the S5 one may need to be less, say around 50 ohms, test using larger ones first. All you're doing is giving the ECU a complete cct when the ECU tests for the solenoids periodically. The 7k resistor takes care of that - as mentioned in other resistor mod threads. So the neutral switch isn't really used, unless you want to make it a starter motor interlock - won't start in gear.The problem with the resistor mod is that the ECU always sees the trans in neutral, which is fine for idle and deceleration, but the ECU never switches to this mode. Most people don’t realise the ECU needs a signal to know whether the car is in gear or neutral. This helps with idle speeds, and fuel cutoff when coasting amongst other things. To assist with this, the T5 manual has a neutral switch as shown in the picture to the right.http://erdemlirehberim.com/UserFiles/d52w14-service-manual.xml

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  • ef manual conversion wiring, ef manual conversion wiring transfer switch, ef manual conversion wiring diagram, ef manual conversion wiring circuit, ef manual conversion wiring diagrams.

Neutral Switch ECU Pins The following table outlines which pin the switch needs to be connected to. Reply Jason Bolger says: June 29, 2017 at 6:42 pm You would find idle behavior issues and return to idle would not behave correctly. The ECU has strategies to prevent a stall when coasting for example. Cheers, Jason Reply Kane says: August 9, 2017 at 7:55 pm what if my gearbox does not have a neutral switch on it.Reply Jason Bolger says: August 9, 2017 at 9:03 pm You should find all E-Series T5s have the switch. Reply Paul says: May 13, 2018 at 6:33 pm I have an Au v8 5 speed manual without the switch.What do i do in that case. Reply Jason Bolger says: May 14, 2018 at 8:12 pm Wire it up per factory. Reply Dylyn says: November 29, 2019 at 9:55 pm Are you able to use the signal return wire that’s used next to the gear selector wire as the earth or do you have to make a new wire running to earth Reply Jason Bolger says: November 30, 2019 at 9:52 am SIGRTN should be fine mate. Reply Sheridan says: June 19, 2020 at 12:56 am I’ve wired my neutral switch up via the wires already at the gearbox. It does prevent me from starting the car in gear but is there a way to wire up a clutch switch to allow the car to start in gear as long as the clutch is being pushed. I have cruise control so I’ve already got the cruise control switch mounted in the factory location. Also, as I’ve wired my switch up using the wires at the gearbox do I still need to run a wire to my ECU. Reply Jason Bolger says: June 21, 2020 at 10:55 am The starter inhibitor and neutral switch are different things. Grab a workshop manual and follow the diagram for a factory manual. The ECU expects a neutral signal on the gear position input so it can control idle properly. Reply Sheridan says: June 27, 2020 at 12:45 am What if I were to use a factory manual loom, would this eliminate any issues. Reply Jason Bolger says: June 28, 2020 at 11:34 am Yes, or simply reviewing a workshop manual and wiring it the same.https://www.denizberksoy.com/denizberksoy/usermedia/d52gw12-service-manual.xml Reply Leave a Reply Want to join the discussion. Feel free to contribute. Leave a Reply Cancel reply Your email address will not be published. Built from the ground up by revheads for revheads, our system is designed to make it easy to assemble your system from end to end. GST Owners Gallery Justin’s XH XR6 May 4, 2019 - 10:49 am Jaan’s AU XR6 Turbo June 2, 2018 - 5:00 pm Mick’s Cobra March 27, 2017 - 8:48 am Daniel’s ED Fairmont December 26, 2016 - 2:11 pm Instagram This is Josh's EB Falcon. You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and inserts advertising. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members, respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features without post based advertising banners. Registration is simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today. If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.This is checked twice each day so there will be a delay before your registration is activated.There are a number of IP ranges blocked in order to keep known spammers from registering and some of these are wide ranging. If you believe your IP has been blocked in error then to contact the administrator click here. Major Parts needed: -Pedal assembly, keep your old one cause you will have to switch over the gas pedal unless u want to change the cable out too -flywheel and flywheel bolts as the auto bolts are much shorter -Tranny of course, Si or DX 5 speed is good choice -Clutch and pressure plate -Clutch cable and firewall gromet -Shiftlinkage with shifter and boot from 88 - 91 civic or crx -Peice of steel to weld or glue in where the auto cable came up, so it doesn't get unreasonable hot in the car from your wouldbe heat vent.http://www.diamondsinthemaking.com/content/boss-bx-8-mixer-manual -wire to run from backup light switch on tranny to where auto shifter was -axels as i hear they are diff, i didnt find out cause i did the zc swap at the same time and allready had everything including beefier axels -ECU Installing the pedals (have fun): This part sucks. Droping steering column and removing drivers seat makes life easier at this part. I cannot tell you how many nuts hold the assembly to the car, i can say it is all nuts though. One is really tricky to find and get to. You need a swivle, deepwell 12mm and 2 six inch extensions. It is above the air vents and steering column. Have fun getting it out. Remove cotter pin that holds brake pedal to brake booster. There is also a nut and bolt for it. Remove the gas pedal from automatic pedal assembly and move to manual assembly so the cable plugs up, or switch cable. Install the clutch cable through gromet that honda left on firewall in factory location. Rebolt all the nuts to the car that hold the pedal assembly. Removal of the transmission: To remove the transmission (you should know how to do this otherwise don't attempt). Please check my work with a chiltons or haynes manual as i will not be held responcible for damages that incure from this install. Remove both axels. Unbolt the bellhousing, remove the mounts (3 of them) and remove transmission, this is a unusually large tranny, it might require the whole engine coming out depended on how patient you are. I had the whole thing out cause i was putting a DOHC ZC in. Unbolt the torque converter from the motor, install flywheel ( make sure not to reuse automatic flywheel bolts). Installing shift linkage: This is a fairly simple task, remove the old auto shifter by removing 2 bolts on top and 2 on bottom. Then drill 2 holes where honda welded over them as picture below. Then simply install as a normal linkage would be.http://hillstromplasticsurgery.com/images/case-480c-operators-manual.pdf Take a piece of thin metal and glue to a piece of abs plastic and epoxy it on, the metal is to deflect heat and the plastic is to keep the heat form transfering inside. Installing the transmission: Torqure manual flywheel bolts down at 76 footpounds of torque. Install clutch with alignment tool, torque bolts down to 25 ft lbs. Before you install it all back there is one extremely important thing about the rear mount. Honda left 2 spots to mount the rear mount with 3 sets of holes, two are threaded, one is not. You need to move the mount location to the one that is threaded and then thread the other and place a bolt in there. Reassemble as specified in honda manual. Put new manual axels in. Wiring with diagrams: Drag two wires from under the hood (yellow and green on tranny) for the reverse lights to work when you are in reverse. Please note that the R light on the instrument cluster will not work without some decent knowledge of relay wiring. Connect these to wires to the ones pictured below I found this one out the hard way, the key will not come out unless the car is in park and um, you dont have a park anymore. To fix this you can make the car think its in park all the time. Please understand, by doing this the P will be on in the instrument cluster all the time. This can be corrected one of 2 ways, disconneting the light or some extensive relay work. This one is needed to crank the car because it no longer has a neutral or park. It is one of two plugs with only 2 wires. This one is easy to spot because it has two heavy black wires instead of the other with two yellow wires. Just connect them in a simple loop, or with some relay work to the clutch pedal because some decent current goes through them directly to the starter. I just left it like picture and allways crank the car with my foot on the clutch. Finished job: Below is a pic of what it all looked like before covering it back up. There is a small amount of space for heat to come in at shift boot. This can be corrected in your own inventive ways. I tucked the wires under the plastic at the bottom of the pic. Please Also Note I Do NOT HAVE THE LINK TO THE ORIGINAL!!! Paste as plain text instead Display as a link instead Clear editor Upload or insert images from URL.With over 1500 active forum members and that number growing with each month, NZHondas.com is the largest car themed forum in the country. Several functions may not work. Please re-enable javascript to access full functionality. So im assuming its a EB'. Anyway, the 4th gear servo had gone shot in it. I said i'll ask around and see what other options there are. My thoughts were. Replace with another auto. I assumed these would be eazy to come by and cheap: Other option, manual conversion, T5 manual.How about peddle box. Can i mod a peddle on there or will i need the entire box form a manual. Any info you guys think would be handy, to help me with the box change and procurement, i will love you for it. I've had bugger all experience with e-series. Maybe you even have an old e-series suitable transmission sitting in your pile of stuff and you wanna part with it. Cheers. -Crazy2287Peddle box is a nightmare but you can just buy a malwood pin kit or make your own. No need to change the computer either as the wiring just plugs in and the auto comp thinks its in neutral. Ive done a few e series conversions )Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how far you take the wall with you.The resistor trick.if it works.is just dodgy. Get the correct ECU. If you can't, purchase a J3 chip to get the transmission choice you like. The EF version is different to the ED one.120 pins vs 60-odd for earlier models so be sure to identify correctly.Wack another one (preferably from a au or el, I also heard they're tougher somehow) in there and be dOne with it on the cheap.Wrong there buddy,all eb's had 4speed autos,none had 3 speeds.Some early eb's got the centerpoint 3.9 engine,but they still had a 4 speed auto.Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how far you take the wall with you.How so? I'm genuinely interested to know. My EB's okay.My EB's okay. Poor clutch feel is the first thing I dont like, missing bolts and brackets, messy wiring etc, then the conversion kit is missing a few bits, hard way too fix a car in my opinion. Not saying you cant do it well and that yours is not a good example Gav, but I have not driven one conversion that feels as good as it should, and to make the car work again this would be the hard way of doing it.Not saying you cant do it well and that yours is not a good example Gav, but I have not driven one conversion that feels as good as it should, and to make the car work again this would be the hard way of doing it.Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how far you take the wall with you.My experiences have been mixed. The XF I converted sometime ago cracked at the firewall within 18 months of the conversion. My EB is still fine, many years post-conversion and my EF XR6 - manual since the factory is fine 17 years later. Strange, considering its clutch action has been the heaviest of the lot. It has as many kays on it as the others and consequently probably a much larger number of clutch pedal cycles. Cable condition is probably a key factor. It's such a long cable, subjected to a fair amount of heat. As the cable lube reduces with time and heat exposure, reaction forces applied to the firewall increase. Ever notice how much better clutch feel is with a new and properly adjusted cable. Why would the pedal sit higher. I've noticed this too. I've never had issues with the cable clevis at the pedal end. It is bushed and pinned - how can it spread when it's physically constrained by a split pin. I've had the hook thingy at the throw-out lever end pull through though. One pissy little component can disable the whole car. I carry one of these in the car, it's good to have one on board as a spare. Having said that - at least Falcons are tractable enough to pull away in third gear. At least you can limp home.been there too.Ended up figureing out that if i dropped the gearbox with it still on end it would tilt back far enough to get a massive extension in and un do em. Anyway, im up to flex plate to torque converter bolts.Any one have that torque handy? You can have a turbo, supercharged, NOS or normally aspiratedSo at the flick of a switchYou can have a turbo, supercharged, NOS or normally aspiratedSo at the flick of a switchYou can have a turbo, supercharged, NOS or normally aspiratedSo at the flick of a switchYou can have a turbo, supercharged, NOS or normally aspiratedSo at the flick of a switchCreate an account now Update my browser now. Something went wrong.Learn more - opens in a new window or tab This amount is subject to change until you make payment. For additional information, see the Global Shipping Program terms and conditions - opens in a new window or tab This amount is subject to change until you make payment. If you reside in an EU member state besides UK, import VAT on this purchase is not recoverable. For additional information, see the Global Shipping Program terms and conditions - opens in a new window or tab Learn more - opens in a new window or tab Learn more - opens in a new window or tab Learn more - opens in a new window or tab Learn more - opens in a new window or tab Learn more - opens in a new window or tab The item has been completely disassembled, cleaned, and examined for wear and breakage. Worn out, missing or non-functioning components have been replaced with new or rebuilt components. It is the functional equivalent of a new part and is virtually indistinguishable from a new part. See the seller’s listing for full details. Contact the seller - opens in a new window or tab and request postage to your location. Please enter a valid postcode. Please enter a number less than or equal to 3. If you don't follow our item condition policy for returns, you may not receive a full refund. Refunds by law: In Australia, consumers have a legal right to obtain a refund from a business if the goods purchased are faulty, not fit for purpose or don't match the seller's description. More information at returns. All Rights Reserved. User Agreement, Privacy, Cookies and AdChoice Norton Secured - powered by Verisign. The auto driveplate bolts are too short.Don't cheap out, buy a new clutch. Exedy makes a great and affordable stock replacement.Disconnect the cotter pin that connects the brake pedal to the brake booster, then you can start unbolting the pedal assembly. To get the best access to the bolts, I recommend removing the driver's seat (two bolts in front, two in back, and a clip underneath, easy) and dropping the steering column.Lie on your back in the footwell. Remove the fuse cover. Just above the fuse panel, next to the steering column you will see a stud with a 12mm nut. There is one just like it on the other side. Just above those are a pair of 12mm bolts. These hold the height adjuster mechanism to the inner dash supports. Then there are two more down below on a clamp half.Five of them are on the firewall, the sixth is above the brake pedal. Once they are all off, disconnect the throttle cable and your granny foot controls are out.Honda left a hole and a grommet there for you. Make sure you have those little pedal stops in place, at least for the brake pedal. Without them, your battery will quickly drain because your brake light switch will always be on. Don't worry, the extra stud you need is already there, but you'll have to find another nut.You can put the steering column back up too.Depending on your situation, you may be better off removing the engine as well, if you're doing an engine swap simultaneously for instance. This guide will walk you through just the transmission removal.If your rear wheels are still on the ground, (ie.Remove the starter and transmission ground cables, then disconnect the speedo cable, it's secured with a clip. Do not disassemble the speedo gear holder, the speedo gear could fall into the transmission housing. Drain the transmission fluid into an appropriate container and properly recycle the fluid. Remove the ATF cooler hoses. Remove the axle nuts (32mm). Remove the cotter pins and castle nuts from the lower front balljoints,and separate the balljoints. Click here to see a video of how to best remove the balljoints. Swing the knuckles out and remove both axles. If the axles are stuck in the hubs, use a mallet or small sledge to knock them out. If you have an axle puller tool (looks like this ), lucky you.Remove the header pipe and bracket (or remove the whole exhaust manifold if those bolts are too rusted), and remove the lower torque converter cover. Next remove the shift control cable by removing the cable holder bolt, cotter pin and control pin, or you can do like I did and just cut the damn thing. At this point you can see the drive plate, remove the drive plate bolts one at a time while rotating the crank pulley.Remove the mounts in this order: Front, Rear, Side. You're now ready to unbolt the transmission. There are 5 bolts holding the tranny to the engine, get those suckers off, and you can pull the transmission away from the engine. Once the tranny clears the dowel pins, lower it on the jack and dispose of it. Or, sell it to some sucker that's got a blown tranny in his sedan. The flywheel bolts are torqued to 76 ft-lbs. Use the alignment tool and bolt your new clutch and pressure plate to the flywheel. Install the new throwout bearing on the manual transmission. Don't forget to drain and refill the tranny with Honda MTF.This isn't hard, just remove the center console (6 screws) and then start taking the shifter apart. It's not like you're putting it back in, so just take off every screw, bolt and connector you see, and have fun knowing you're done with it. There are some bolts that you'll have to get at from under the vehicle.You should be able to easily see where Honda welded them shut, just behind the auto shifter bolt holes. Drill them open and install the shifter and linkages. Have fun with the spring pin. An 8mm punch and the aforementioned sledge will help.It should be very easy to spot because your seat is out. When that's done, remove the single 10mm bolt that holds that little blue box in place, and throw it away. Then tackle the reverse light wiring. Drag two wires from the tranny reverse switch (yellow and green) and connect them to the wires seen below:There is no starter relay on the automatic cars, it's handled internally by the auto shifter. You must have seen the two heavy gauge black wires going into the auto shifter, that's your starter circuit. You have two options here, the first is to connect them in a simple loop, as seen below:There will be no safety override device in place.You'll need a 40-amp automotive relay and a clutch switch on your pedal assembly. The normally open contacts on the relay are where you'll connect the two thick black wires. Now the starter won't get juice unless the clutch is depressed.Reinstall the cover and put the carpet back in place.It's best to weld it in place, since I assume you won't be converting back to auto. Get a friend to help if you can't weld or don't have the equipment. In a pinch, duct tape will also work, but it's not a permanent solution. Put your seat back in and adjust it to your liking, put the battery back in, check to make sure everything is tight and in good working order, and go for a drive. Don't stall it. I remember looking at mine side by side when i did the swap and I seem to recall not finding a difference.You'll need a 12mm socket i believe. There are two nuts that hold the column to two studs under the gauge area of the dash. Then futher down there are two bolts holding the column by a half circle clamp. I think there is a plastic cylindrical cover over the bottom ones, just pull it down and off. Just curious why do you have 3 listed?I can't remember if the side mount itself is different also.Lie on your back in the footwell. Then as I said there are two down below on a clamp half. I'm interested in this as long as it doesn't cost too much. I'm interested in this as long as it doesn't cost too much. For that price I'm assuming new axles, lightweight flywheel, new Exedy clutch - stuff that you don't have to get but would be smart to take advantage of. I'm interested in this as long as it doesn't cost too much. I would if it was all new parts, but a lot of the parts you need are going to be sourced used, and prices vary widely. For that price I'm assuming new axles, lightweight flywheel, new Exedy clutch - stuff that you don't have to get but would be smart to take advantage of. I was thinking about getting maybe some integra pedals. The shift linkage has to be from an 88-91 Civic or CRX. The shift linkage has to be from an 88-91 Civic or CRX. It should be very easy to spot because your seat is out. When that's done, remove the single 10mm bolt that holds that little blue box in place, and throw it away. I wish I had a pic, but it really should be obvious, it's slightly larger than a deck of cards. I wish I had a pic, but it really should be obvious, it's slightly larger than a deck of cards.If you can already do that, skip that step. You'll need a 40-amp automotive relay and a clutch switch on your pedal assembly. Now the starter won't get juice unless the clutch is depressed. Any and all trademarks are property of their respective owners. To start viewing messages,Here's how I did it: First disconnect the negative terminal of the battery. Then, remove the centre console: Then remove the shroud from the steering column, undo the 2 nuts securing the steering column to the dash. Lower it to the floor. Remove the 2 screws from the top of the radio surround and remove the surround: Remove the handbrake trim panel and undo the nuts securing the handbrake bracket to the car and firewall. Lower handbrake to the floor: Remove the sill panels and kick panels from the left and right hand sides: Undo the screw securing the bonnet release cable to the dash. Withdraw rearwards and lower to the floor: Undo the screws on the glovebox hinges. Remove glovebox from the car. Working through the glovebox hole, disconnect the heater selector cable: Undo the 2 allen screws from the dashboard extension panel and remove from the car: Well, so it turns out my car was optioned with premium sound: Disconnect the wiring for the tweeters (if fitted) and the dashboard earth wire. Undo the lower dash bolts and then get an assistant to help you with the next bit. Undo the top dash screws. Then, you should be able to pull the dash forward enough to suitably mark all of the wiring plugs and then disconnect them. You should then be able to swing the dash across and rest it on the driver's seat. Undo the 5 nuts securing the pedal box to the firewall and brake booster. Remove the split pin from the brake pedal and slip the brake booster pushrod off the brake pedal. Then remove the 3 nuts holding the top of the pedal box to the firewall: Then you should be able to take the blasted thing out. Look mum, no brakes. Here are the auto and manual pedal boxes side by side: Refitting is a reverse of the removal. And there you are. Three pedals: I hope it goes back together easily. Thanks, Evan. And it did go back together nicely. Still there to this day.Good work so far Most of the car is pretty easy to work on with some exceptions. I had to pull the engine to replace the sump. Good work so far You can find a guide here: Faq's: The driveshaft is the same for auto and manual. If the car is 4 speed auto you will have to change the ECU to a manual equivalent or 'trick' it into thinking it's in neutral. Speedo transducer is the same auto to manual. Any e-series T5 will fit on any e-series. AU onwards has a 50mm longer extension housing.If the car is 4 speed auto you will have to change the ECU to a manual equivalent or 'trick' it into thinking it's in neutral. AU onwards has a 50mm longer extension housing. This is mainly because they have a fully hydraulically controlled automatic gearbox ie.In fact if you have a 3 speed EA or an EA with a separate TCM (transmission control module), you would not need to change ECU's as the ECU only controls the engine, not the trans as well.Its very fulfilling putting the clutch in the first time and getting into gear.All rights reserved. This page was generated at 08:35 AM. These modifications are available either as a reflash, or a fully tunable system. Reflashes involve the ECU being sent to Hondata; programmable system require the ECU to be modified for pre-2006 vehicles, or an external programming interface for 2006 and later vehicles. Note: Standard harness does not include VTEC wiring so if you are going to be wiring in VTEC your self or not using a VTEC motor select standard harness conversion.You can install any OBD1 coil into your External coil USDM H-Series distributor with very little modification. You can install any OBD1 coil into your External coil USDM H-Series distributor with very little modification. Our harness also includes a 3’ pigtail to simplify wiring any additional or required sensors to complete the installation.Made with quality OE style plugs, this jumper harness will allow your OBD0 Honda to accept an OBD1 or OBD2 distributor. Saves you about 2 hrs worth of painful wiring and looks super clean. Why would you wanna mess with shit like that when we’ve come up with a total plug n’ play solution for you. Mess up on one of the wires and your distributor and Fuel Management system can be fried. Don’t take a chance on burning up an ECU, grab the OBD0 to OBD1 Distributor Jumper Harness today Available in 16” or 32” lengths (fits most US spec Honda 4 wire O2 sensors) Converting over allows you to use the more powerful motor found in later generations of these cars. All instructions are included for installation. Direct plug and play. This Zerg Jumper harness is for the installation of the ECU only. Direct plug and play. This is for the installation of the ECU only. Brand new connectors and pins sourced from the same company Honda uses.